Friday, June 29, 2007

Micronesia shipwreck!

Sad news as a famous liveaboard hits the local reef.



http://stpns.net/view_article.html?articleId=42749775362134952

Thursday, June 28, 2007

Similans


Sometimes the turtles just want to be seen while diving. So sitting on the boat…this feller pulls right up and is begging for treats.

We didn’t feed him, but the next boat did. Oh well….lead by example



Khao Lak Diving
Similan Liveaboards

Khao Lak Tsunami updates

While we were here during the tsunami and it did affect us, we have taken a firm stand about not exploiting that fact and have learned from those around us – We have been through that, we have dealt with it and life continues.

Living here has given us a lot of hope and insight into ourselves and most of humanity. The news is good. So we continue on and enjoy ourselves and those around us.

We have also learned a lot about charities, NGO’s and “christians” during this time. One example is the massive increase in the number of fishing boats. It was obvious at the time that many people’s livelihood’s were destroyed along with their boats. The donations came in. Now there is an estimated 75% more fishing boats in the region than before the tsunami. It says that donations were effective, but misguided. When do you say – stop?

the “christians” were/are among the very worst behaved of all the people that came through. They gave gifts of furniture and housing – conditional upon attendance at church. We know of at least two instances where these gifts were forcibly taken back after not attending church. Needless to say there is something of a bad taste …

The only one that seems to be an exception is Worldvision. They are a christian group with an agenda, and that’s not acceptable in my book. But in this region (I know nothing of Indonesia or Sri Lanka) they were the single NGO that was where it was needed, doing the work that helped and really getting the job done.

As a matter of fact, there are several charities still headquartered here in Khao Lak. Which seems strange as this is a region of white beaches, 5 star resorts and prosperous families.

So this press release by World vision is very interesting indeed. While things are not perfect, they are really saying how things have progressed and changed people. I found this qoute to be the most affirming….


“Though many households are now thriving, others continue to struggle for a variety of reasons, such as the loss of a prime income earner or continued underemployment, but most people surveyed felt a more positive relationship between community members, a renewed appreciation for one another and a higher value on life after surviving the disaster. Those who reported negative changes point to financial stress and an increase in alcohol consumption. Across all provinces, people named strengthened relationships as the primary motivation for, and benefits of working together on community-based activities such as building houses, collecting garbage, and planting trees.”

The trees they are mentioning are to rebuild mangroves as buffers against any future waves. The community is stronger. And yes, if you lost several of your family members in a tsunami, I reckon you might be develop a drinking problem.

Overall things are going fine and many of the NGO’s have shut down operations and left. Banda Aceh is still struggling under the burden of redevelopment.

Wednesday, June 27, 2007

Khao Lak weather – June 2007


There are plenty of ups and downs to living here. We get so much nature it hurts. It’s so green that I sometimes pine for the desert. I’m the only person that wears a helmet. Rent is less than $100 a month.

So today two joys of life here come to mind….we signed up for automatic billing of our phone lines. We were immediately cut off. It took 12 hours to get ourselves reconnected.

The other is today’s weather forecast…..

(BangkokPost.com) – An active southwest monsoon prevailed over the Andaman Sea, Thailand and the Gulf on Wednesday morning, bringing abundant rain throughout the country, according to the Meteorological Department.

There will be heavy rain in the following provinces — Chiang Mai, Mae Hong Son, Lamphun, Lampang, Chiang Rai, Nan, Phrae, Uttaradit, Sukhothai, Tak, Rayong, Chanthaburi, Trat, Ranong, Phangnga, Phuket and Krabi.

The department warned that people should beware of flooding in the following a day or two.

Strong wind and wave is also likely in the Gulf and the Andaman Sea, it said.

Widespread thundershowers with isolated heavy rain are also expected in Bangkok.”

The only problem….we’ve been sitting under these monsoons for two days and they just moved away today. As you can see from the picture. So our weather forecasters are almost 100% correct as the use the old – hindsight method of forecasting. They wait until after the weather has passed, then issue the prediction.


Khao Lak Diving
Thailand Liveaboards

Similan Dive Sites – Snapper Alley

Located at the SouthEastern end of Similan #9
was used primarily for a training ground as it had large sandy patches with nice coral heads scattered around, but not so much that it would harm a diver or a diver could harm the coral.

It featured lots of nice bommies and several really nice table corals. So many students were introduced to diving here.

As both DM’s and instructors we loved this site. Very easy to teach, but also had plenty of things to hold everyone’s interest. It was also one of the best places to teach a student and have their family/friends snorkeling at the same time.

While most of the Similan dive sites were unaffected by the tsunami (too far off shore) this is the site that got hit the worst. As it was in a narrow channel and laid out directly in the path of the wave, it meant that the all the flow of onrushing water came right in and overturned a lot of the corals and swept a lot of the sand away.

IT will still take some time to recover, but as you can see from the surface it’s still a very scenic place to visit.
The upper picture is from the rocks above Snapper alley, looking over the site towards Donald Duck Bay.

The lower picture is looking west towards the liveaboard mooring bay that has hundreds of different names.

And yes, the water is that blue. Again – it’s why we live here.



Most of our training dives are now done in either Donald Duck Bay or Honeymoon Bay


Similan Daytrips
Similan Liveaboards

Monday, June 25, 2007

Wicked Diving – More about us


Here is a recent sketch of myself and Karin.

Feeling good – looking good. That’s what matters isn’t it?

It is also true that my lower legs are almost entirely transparent.

Similan Sunshine for a cloudy day


Yup…it’s like this on the Similans! Beautiful water, nice beaches and of course – diving.

I usually don’t have time for the hammock, but it sure calls out to me today.

It makes for fantastic days, and that’s why we live here!


Wicked Diving
Liveaboardguide

Sunday, June 24, 2007

Khao Lak Diving – Bon soong


Just saw this one in our library and thought I’d put it out here for all to see.

This is a lovely example of chromodoris annulata or for the more nerdy – Chromi’s.

These are really beautiful, and often quite easy to see. Due to their bright colors.

This is most frequently seen on Nudi Wall on Bon Soong wreck and can often be seen from several meters away.

Elephant problems




So we have different signs for road hazards here.


In this case I would pay attention. You REALLY don’t want to hit one of these.

Heck, you don’t even want to hit their droppings!

They are huge!



Friday, June 22, 2007

Similan Diving

Just felt the mood strike for some reminders about the Similans and why we’re here. Haven’t been in the water for a spell, so I felt a bit dried out.



Here is a picture of Princess bay on Similan Island #4



And here is a picture of Donald Duck Bay on Similan Island #8


Check out our Liveaboard pages for updated schedules and deals.


We are looking forward to seeing all of you next year!

Khao Sok Redux…



Khao Sok National Park




Went for a bit of a ride this week. Made my way over to Koh Tao, which is on the other side of Thailand and a bit of a boat ride. So I took my scooter and rode like the wind. A slow sort of sputtering wind, but you know I was screaming “Born to Wild” while cruising along.


(click on all pictures for a larger copies)


One of the main reasons that I took the bike was so I could poke around in Khao Sok National park. One of the most beautiful places in Thailand.



I’ve included just a few pictures here. There is also a bit on Khao Sok in this posting.



These massive pillars and geographical features start here in this region and continue south until you reach the much more famous (and crowded) pinnacles in Krabi and Phang Nga bay.





We often take day trips to visit these and to remind ourselves that this region of Thailand is so much more than just diving and snorkeling. Khao Sok National Park is the largest in Thailand and has some amazing wildlife – including wild Elephants, Bears, Largest Flower in the world and plenty more. The region surrounding the park is undeveloped and features not only the largest stretches of Rain forest in Thailand but the oldest existing rain forest in the world.






There is also the lake, man made and still rising. So much more – Rock Climbing, Golf Courses, rafting, trekking as well as the beaches.








Sunday, June 17, 2007

Things found in our bathroom 3

Well here is a weird one for sure. It flew in last night and is quite a large moth with a wingspan of about half my hand.

With it’s wings spread it looks much like a skull pattern on the wings. with green arms. Quite attractive, but a bit weird, like a cartoon mystery gets solved by following this to the treasure….



It was still there in the morning and it looked much more like a crumpled leaf. It’s head, which is pretty hard to see (sorry) looks like a bat with a long nose.


Sorry – not enough time in the water so ….

Saturday, June 16, 2007

Surin Islands








Ah the lovely Surin Islands


Does it get much more scenic? This is one of our favorite places to relax and enjoy life. This is where we go on our vacations.


You can see why


The diving isn’t as good as on the Similan Islands, but the snorkeling makes up for it. Really nice coral in really good conditions throughout the Islands. We also find some really special species that we don’t see other places (Barramundi for example).

This is also the best place to spend the night. Not stuffed with luxury or anything like extraordinary, it’s just great location. Tents just off the beaches, with such gorgeous scenery surrounding the area.

The tents and bungalows are simple, if not barren and really are jsut places to put stuff. This is all about nature. And boy does it deliver.

There are also miles of trails through primary rain forest with some truly amazing animals – including the local monkeys and the Nicobar Pigeon. This is one of those truly amazing places that makes Thailand so special to us.



This is also a great place to do apnea/free diving as the reef slopes steeply away, not quite walls, but making for great swims. Face to face with Moray Eels, and Turtles.

The beaches are numerous and accessible via the trails or longtails.





Khao Lak Diving
Similan Liveaboards
Dive Safely

Khao Lak Weather – June 2007


A nice sunset…Click on it for larger size

Khao Lak bugs



Part of our ever growing catalog of bugs, beasties and oddities from the area comes this very cool spider I found in the jungle.


It was uncomfortable being photographed so I couldn’t get the really cool details on it’s back.
It was a brighter Red than this, and those black lines are actually a series of dots in a linear fashion.


The “horns” are just accessories as the legs are just in the middle. Really weird….


I haven’t seen it in nay books, but it must be called a carabao spider as it has the same outline as the carabao (waterbuffalo) skull predominant in Thai culture.

This is not an ad for carabao energy drink. If you want to drink “water buffalo” energy drink – go ahead. Not my problem

Things found in our bathroom 2





So

with plenty of time on my hands and a empty camera I was able to add a few creatures to our collection of weird bugs….






The first one here is pretty common but overlooked because it really does look like some twig on the wall, except when you brush it off it gets up and flies around just like any other bug.











These next pix are of the one that is more “stick” than bug. These get completely stiff when moved and even feel like a stick.





I had to be still for several minutes before it opened up and walked around.




Fortunately I was feverish and had plenty going on inside my head and could amuse myself by staring at a twig waiting for it to move.

Except it Did.

hmmm….


The other pictures I took seemed to be more heavily influenced by the fevers and not worthy of mention….

Feeling better



After a few days laid up with a fever-bad stomach-flu sort of things I am feeling much better.

As you can see here.

It was cold out.


I caught up on a couple series of TV shows that we download and I could now rant and rave about the horrors of American crappy TV with the wisdom of one who has recent experience with such shameful rubbish.

Monday, June 11, 2007

Khao Lak Activities – Chong Fah Waterfall

Just up the road from our house is Chong Fah waterfall. this time of year the waterfalls are gorgeous, and the surrounding jungles are worth the hike alone – so deep green and lush.
Chong Fah used to be a national park, but there never seems to be anyone there. This was also high ground that became an evacuation center for the tsunami.


The river is the same one that runs right by our house. So we like to take the long winding road up through rubber plantations to the top of the road and then walk. Depending how the rangers are feeling (if they’re there at all) you might be able to ride about half way, or you might have to walk. In total I would reckon it’s 1 km.


You walk through bamboo forest and the overhanging jungle. All very pleasant, wear good shoes if it rained recently.


Look for all the cool things we have along the way – bats hidden in the branches, colorful mushrooms, and plenty more.

Finally you cross a small creek and then on up to the waterfall. Next to which there is very nice old spirit house that reminds you that there is more here than just a pretty picture.


The waterfall comes from the range of mountains behind Khao Lak and even if full, the water is still very pleasant – especially if it has been a hot day! There are little fishies in the water that nibble at your toes.


This is only one of several waterfalls in the area. It just happens to be right near our house so I thought I’d share


Wicked

Liveaboardguide

Sunday, June 10, 2007

Khao Lak Market Day

Just a bit of extra about Khao Lak. We have a large market to the North of Town that is open every day and has fresh veggies and fruit. It’s about 6km form our shop in between Bang Niang and Khuk Khak – hidden behind some shop houses, so not too many tourists now about it.

On Monday, Wednesday and Saturday we have our large traveling market come to town. This has much more of the carnival atmosphere and the fruits and veg are fresher and more selection.
There is also a lot of clothes, posters and CD’s for sale. Many of the people who go are the local Burmese (our migrant laborers) so many of the posters are in Burmese (different language and writing) and feature different people.

Saturday is the big day and there are lots of extra booths. The flower lady’s come out, the perfumes and wathces and lots of other stuff.

It’s also a great way get cheap food. There are lots of weird treats for sale. Anything from curry puffs/samosas to homemade gelatin drinks (like Jello shooters, except with seeds and other yuck and no alcohol).

We do most of our shopping here (when we get the chance). The local stores do have most of the sundries we need. But this does a lot for the local income.

One of the unusual and unexpected affects of the tsunami was the proliferation of hydroponic
gardens. Very good macro investments for NGO’s and it means that there are heaps of good, safe veggies to eat! So fresh salad a couple times a week – that’s hard to find in Thailand.

Wicked
Liveaboardguide

Khao Lak Weather – June 2007


Again – great weather today.

What Can I say?

That palm tree that always in our pictures? That’s Palm Oil tree. The red is the actually nuts that they bring to the big factories and squeeze to all hell!

Saturday, June 9, 2007

Surin Dive Sites







Some 100 km north west of Khao Lak Beach (and 50 km off the west coast of Kuraburi) lie the Surin Islands consisting of five jungle cropped granite islands and their fringing coral reefs. Offering excellent snorkeling and great diving.

They are world-famous for their gorgeous, diverse and prolific shallow-water corals, and usually one of the highlights of anyone’s visit to Thailand. This is an island paradise with numerous beautiful coves and bays, and dense jungle. The coral colonies surrounding the islands are the most well developed in Thailand, and are also considered some of the most beautiful.

As the Surins form a protective shape from the annual monsoon storms from the West, the entire Eastern side of the islands are covered in verdant hard corals. The corals start at the lowtide mark (be careful!) and descend on gentle slopes until meeting the sandy bottom anywhere between 10 and 20 Meters down. Because of this extensive coral density, the Snorkeling is incredible.

The Surin Islands have a couple of great dive sites, but because of the location they are often overlooked by liveaboards and dive operators in the region. A real shame. These are some of the best night dives in the world, and knowledgeable Divemasters have some secret sites that really just blow people away. Nearby Richelieu Rock will often have multiple boats at the same time, while Torinla and Koh Chi will not see a dive boat for days!

The Islands are quite different geologically from the surrounding
sites of the Similans. with much more gently sloping reefs and the islands themselves are more spread out and lush.

By far the two largest islands are Ko Surin Nua (north island) and Ko Surin Tai (south island) and at one point these two islands lie just across a small bay from each other. Ko Chi, Ko Pachumba and Ko Torinla are the other islands. There is also the small rock outpost of Hin Rap ( 2km north of Surin Nua) and a series of granite boulders projecting above the surface at Hin Kong ( 2km east of the southern half of Surin Tai).

The park showcases some 200 coral species, with a basic ecosystem framework of fire corals, brain corals, mushroom corals, staghorn corals, and multi-coloured soft corals and ruby-red gorgonian sea fans. The coral and environs provide habitat to over 800 species of fish such as puffer fish, lion fish, butterfly fish, angel fish, barracuda, sailfish, rock lobsters and other crustaceans, and Moray eels. Four species of turtle (the Leatherback, the Green, the Olive Ridley and the Hawksbill) are to be found (try Ao Tau on the south island). Stranger species such as the frog fish and ghost pipe fish have also been sighted around the waters of Ko Surin.

This is also a common place to site Manta Rays and Our local version of Barramundi. For the macro enthusiast we often find some unusual Nudibranchs as well as other exotic species in the corals. Juvenile Shady Batfish!

Off the Surin western shores are submerged pinnacles which are reminiscent of some of the boulder formations of the Similans, but the best developed reefs are off the eastern coasts.

The park office and visitor’s centre are at Ao Mae Yai on the north island (south west side). Basic accomodation is available in the form of park longhouses, bungalows, and camping grounds. The Park operates long-tailed boats to the main snorkelling sites and rents out equipment.

The best months to visit the Surin Islands are from December to April, when the weather is dry and pleasant, and the seas are calm, and water visibility is good. In fact it is not usually
adviseable to visit the Surin Archipelago during the SW monsoons (June – September) due to adverse sea and weather conditions. (The National Park Office is closed office is closed, so it is not possible to visit)

The most economical way to reach the Surin Islands is from Ban Hin Lat, a small village pier which is 6 km north of Khura Buri, heading north from Khao Lak past Takua Pa on Route 4. The Road Time takes about 75 minutes. Speedboat only takes 45 minutes or so.

We do both Snorkeling and diving daytrips to the Surin Islands twice a week.

However access for the serious diver is almost exclusively via live-aboards. Only a few operators go there. Don’t forget that the Similans, Richelieu Rock, Koh Bon and Koh Tachai are located here too!

If you are doing day trips – then this is should be one of the trips to make. If you are doing a liveaboard, ask if this is one of the destinations before booking.

Snorkelers -This is it! Better than the Similans and only matched by Koh Lipe in the South for quality and scenery. Stay overnight for a real treat!



Khao Lak Diving
Thailand Liveaboards
Diving Safely

Similan Marine Life – Bumphead Parrotfish

The Bumphead Parrotfish or Bolbometopon muricatumis both amazing and beautful. This is the largest of all the parrotfish family – which is known for colorful displays and strange lifestyles already.

The Bumpheads can grow as large as 1.3 Meters (4 1/2 Feet) and weigh as much as 80 Kilos (180 pounds). They are quite impressive and very exciting to watch. They have the very unusual shape to their heads (it is theorized) as they will use it to ram coral communities to make dining easier?! I’ve never seen this, but their heads look like they’ve had a bit of abuse, so it could very be true.

The other really amusing feature of the bumpheads are their teeth. They have what appears to be a huge beak sticking out. It is in fact a fused tooth that is so thick it can scrap and crush coral colonies. It looks very funny and is kind of intimidating at first. Once you realize they are not only harmless but quite timid you’re attitude changes.

They are also quite peculiar in that they are hermaphroditic – they change sex. They are usually seprated by colors – the juveniles (found in shallows) and females are drab and the males are very brightly colored and vibrant.

As they are very slow to mature and reproduce, they are quite susceptible to diminishing populations or even extinction due to environmental or more realistically – human interference. They are very popular in the Aquarium trade and the Mock reefs of restaurants and resorts

They sleep in shallow areas and often in cracks and nooks in the reef that are often too small for them. Thus they are easily captured for aquariums or spearfished for meat.

Their role in the reef is amazing. Parrotfish are one of the primary sources of sand! They scrape algae off with their teeth, and whatever else gets in, they digest the food, and deposit sand. In most areas where the Bumpheads live, they play an integral role in controlling algae growth. Off the Dominican Republic there were large numbers of Parrotfish and living corals until the mid-80’s. Then, after all other species were fished out, the Parrotfish (Not Bumpheads in this case) were taken in huge numbers. Very soon after the coral was all dead as there was no growth control on the algae. Now imagine when these are the size of humans and eat nearly 3 tonnes of algae a year!

(While they are not list as Endangered they are listed as threatened. In many areas of the world they are extinct. )

They are also quite peculiar in that they are hermaphroditic – they change sex. They are usually seperated by colors – the juveniles (found in shallows) and females are drab and the males are very brightly colored and vibrant.

While we do have them on The Similans – they are not common. Most frequently they are found at Shark Fin Reef and Boulder City. They are spotted at other sites, but not with the frequency one would hope.


So when you do see one, prepare for a giggle and a memory. You can also do your part in preventing their decline by asking what exactly the fish you are eating is – any kind of parrotfish is bad. They are also not that good an eating fish. Also avoid any of the farm raised shrimps and prawns as their feed is purely bycatch from trawlers – which destroys the habitats.

If you’d like to try and see one…contact us or check out our sites…
Wicked Diving
LiveaboardGuide

Similan Dive Sites – rocky point

Rocky Point – Ko Hu Yong (#1)

This site is located just off the most southeasterly tip of the island and offers a submerged ridge of jumbled granite boulders from the surface down to at least 40m. There are numerous ledges, archways, caves and crevices.
Depths from 12 – 40m. Visibilty 18 – 24m.
Hard corals and feather stars cover the shallower rocks, while soft corals wire corals and gorgonian sea fans reside at the deeper depths. Tree corals and barrel sponges abide in profusion.
There are predators such as dogtooth tuna, various species of jacks, leopard sharks, blue-spotted stingrays, and occasional white-tipped reef sharks. Surgeonfish, snapper and large groupers are always present.

Similan Dive Sites – Beacon Beach


Beacon Point/Beacon Beach South – Ko Similan (#8)

This is a good multilevel dive with interesting features at every depth. This south easterly reef is actually an extension of the lengthy sloping drop off running parallel to the eastern coast (Beacon Beach), and very comparable to the latter except that the coral at Beacon Point is superior.

There is abundant healthy hard coral along the shallow reeftop and the steeply dipping dropoff, and clumps of gorgonian sea fans and wire corals on the sandy floor.

Fish life is prolific with an abundance of the usual reef fish. Stingrays, leopard sharks and small reef sharks are also encountered. With favorable currents, it is possible to make a drift dive from Beacon Beach (some three hundred meters to the north).


Depths 6 – 36m. Visibility 18 – 24m.

Similan Dive Sites – stonehenge




Stonehenge – Ko Miang (#4)

This is a relatively deep site a couple of hundred meters off the northern tip of Ko Miang. Large granite boulders are strewn over a white sandy floor at an average depth of 30m. The best parts of the site lie between depths of 18 to 40m. At 20m one encounters hard corals, sponges and feather stars. In the canyons between the boulders and along the sides of the ridge, there are numerous sea fans, together with large barrel sponges, and gorgonian wire corals. Spiny lobsters and soldierfish hide in the deep crevices.

Zebrafish, Damselfish, butterfly fish, jacks, pinjalo snappers, turtles, and, at deeper depths, leopard and other reef sharks are all quite common. Tuna, angelfish and unicorn surgeonfish are also usually in the vicinity.
Depths from 18 – 36m. Average depth 30m. Visibility 18 – 24m.

Similan Dive Sites – Boulder City

This dive site is a continuation of the same Southern Similan geological feature that is Shark Fin Reef. This is the easternmost dive site of the Similan Islands, and can have strong currents. For those who step off the beaten track and are prepared for a fast ride, the rewards are huge. Due to the depth of the dive site and its easterly location, it is best to dive here early in the day.

This isn’t the most requested of the Similan dive sites, so we only visit it once a week on our daytrips. It is, however, frequently visited by liveaboards.

With the boulders starting at 12 meters (36 feet) and heading down until the outer edges at 40 meters (130 feet) you feel as if you are a plane descending into a huge city. The population is chevron barracuda, trevallies, jacks and early in the season massive schools of glassfish make the whole site flex and move. In the sand at the bottom we frequently see leopard sharks, kuhl’s rays with occasional sightings of manta rays! However, do not forget to look in all the cracks and crannies. This is the place to find some beautiful scenes with schools of lionfish hiding in the cracks, and light streaming in from behind, setting the stage for those award winning pictures. Brightly colored surgeonfish grazing on the algae, with damselfish protecting their farms and triggerfish of multiple varieties overseeing it all make this a real underwater zoo.

Diving Depths range from 12-40 meters (36-120 feet) with most time spent at 20-30 meters (70-100 feet). Currents can be strong, as this is open ocean. Especially affected by tidal movement. Perform a current check before entering! Visibility can be phenomenal. Frequently you can see the entire dive site from the surface. Experience level should be Advanced. Currents and depth reserve this site for the truly experienced. Often overlooked for this reason, but it is a great dive!




Wicked Dive Sites

LiveaboardGuide

Similan Dive Sites – Southern Sites


The Southern Similan sites feature a couple of the best sites in all the Similans. Shark Fin Reef and Boulder City. These are unusual in that they are on the Eastern side of the chain, but are rocky sites.
We are only listing one site, Coral Garden, among the Southern sites. There is some argument over what is actually available to dive. Khao Lak dive shops have been warned that these islands (#1 & #2) are off limits. This may or may not be true. IT IS FORBIDDEN to go onto these islands, as they are turtle nesting beaches and very delicate ecosystems!

Shark fin reef is barely submerged and has a couple of different mooring buoys – your DM will choose the appropriate one.

With these sites slightly off the normal routine, you will find fewer divers and more of the easily disturbed fish life (rays, Leopard Sharks) and some other treats – Bumphead Parrotfish and Manta’s.

These sites are usually visited once a week on our daytrips or one the final day of a Phuket based liveaboard trip.

Similan Dive Sites – Shark Fin Reef

Shark Fin Reef – Southern Similan Dive Site

Situated roughly 1 kilometer south-east of Island 3, Shark Fin Reef is a 900m long slab of granite, the top of which can be seen at low tide in the form of three small pointed rocks which give the divesite it’s name – a very similar look to a gigantic sharkfin!

This site we visit via daytrip once a week and is a common site for liveaboards to visit.

Running in a south-east to north-west direction the site is usually sheltered from strong currents and consists of enormous granite boulders tumbling from the surface all the way down to 35m on the southern side and 25-30m on the northern side, with smaller rocks and boulders scattered in between over the main slab itself. In the shallow north-west area some of the boulders look almost man-made with near-perfect right-angled faces. If you continue a few hundred meters South Easterly you’ll end up at Boulder City

Leopard Sharks are often seen in the deeper southern areas, blacktip Reef Shark have also been seen. The Sandy patches along the bottom are home to a plethora of kuhl’s rays, Porcupine rays and a few other rays! Look in the holes and cracks for Giant Moray Eels, heaps of trigger fish (non-aggressive). In the north-western section large adult Cube Boxfish are everywhere and enormous schools of Fusiliers travel in and over the top of the reef to stop and quickly be cleaned by the Striped Cleaner Wrasse which wait at the top of the reef.

This is one of the few sites where you can see one or two huge Humphead Parrotfish. These impressive creatures are both harmless and peculiar. Weighing in at 100 kilos plus, they are pretty big too!

Very unusual nudibranchs litter the shallows, but only for the keen eye. Another good deep site for spotting manta rays.

Diving depths range from shallow to 40 meters (0-120 feet) with most diving done in the 15-25 meter (50-75 feet) range. Visibility tends towards the good side, with average being 20 meters (70 feet). Currents can be strong in the shallows, but the steep slope of the rocks protects you, or works in your favor. Experience level is best reserved for intermediate and beyond. While there are plenty of places to hide from currents, the lack of bottom space in the shallows (cliffs) make this uncomfortable for the beginner.


Wicked dive sites

Liveaboardguide

Similan Dive Sites – Atlantis 2000 wreck



This site is easy and accessible to all advanced divers. The bow is located at 18 meters and the aft at about 32 meters. She is resting on the reef with her aft resting on the sand at depth.

This was a liveaboard operating out of Phuket. She was running on the offseason (August) when they discovered that the bilge pump wasn’t working. There is much discussion as to whether this was human or mechanical error. But there was so much water that the bilge pumps couldn’t work.

The crew and staff pitched in to form a bucket chain to dump the water but it appeared to be a losing game. The captain, rather than continue his race to the mainland, decided that to preserve the vessel he would ground it and then bring it assistance later.

Again the stories diverge. It is my understanding that the boat had fishing boats tie up, to help keep her upright. The crew and staff evacuated. As the boat took on more water, the fishing boats tried to continue the original plan and bring her to the shallows. Whether through failed plans or weather – it didn’t work. From the 5m mark all the way down to where she rests now you can see the field of destroyed corals. She sank to the depths and there she sits.

You can still see the tank racks and other treats. Because the passageways are quite narrow. While not the most fascinating wreck, she is in almost perfect shape and makes for great photography.

If you look around the web you’ll find that several operators are still offering this boat to their guests. I would imagine that you should get a pretty good discount on your trip!

The biggest irony? The same company built a new boat and started running a few years later only….


“ANDAMAN SEA: Six passengers and seven crew spent around seven hours in the water yesterday morning waiting to be rescued after their liveaboard dive boat sank, apparently without warning and in just six minutes, close to the Surin Islands.” – april 2006

Similan Dive Sites – Beacon Reef


Beacon Reef is a large site featuring one of the Similans wrecks, in addition to coral encrusted slopes, Turtles and great drift diving. This site is located on the South Eastern Side of Similan 8, so is protected from the monsoons.

This site is often overlooked as their are no specific highlights beyond the wreck itself. Sadly that’s missing out on the huge numbers of Garden eels at the base of the reef and the extraordinary number of Kuhl’s Rays. We also frequently see Leopard Sharks and Turtles.

As we drift along in the currents, it’s great to see the extant of life. Hundreds of species of coral pass beneath us, hundreds of different species of fish going about their daily lives as we, the invaders, pass overhead. It feels like being on a slow bus passing through a fascinating neighborhood that you can’t stop at!

The wreck is often the highlight and while a fascinating story, is still not all the decayed, so not that much fish life. There are schools of Batfish around, and as the wreck is still in good shape, there are plenty of good pictures to be head.

If you follow the drift Southwards, you’ll end in up in some large boulders that have interesting light but not much else.

We dive this site with all levels of divers. The Wreck itself is deeper and reserved for Advanced divers.

The currents here are weak and useful. They make for a lovely drift dive.

The depths range from 35m to the surface! Most time is spent in the 15m range

Friday, June 8, 2007

Khao Lak Weather June 8, 2007


Another great day in Khao Lak. It always baffles me why this region has the rep for bad weather for 6 months!

No – When we get rain it might last for a week, and it can be a lot of rain. But in the Rainy season we are 85% sunny. Easy to stay inside for a couple of days.

The bargains on hotels is amazing too! as little as 25% of normal prices. Several restaurants are open, the diving is still good, and you get the best feeling about the town – people have time to talk, you get the chance to take in all the sites.

oh well…it’s all mine!

Thursday, June 7, 2007

Khao Lak Dive Sites -Bon Soong Wreck (aka Bang Sak Wreck)

Bon Soong Wreck
We visit this local dive site two or three times a week. We only need two people and we are ready to go! All our staff are always eager to do this dive. Not only is it convenient – just a few kilometers offshore, but the diving is incredible. I’ve personally dived it close to 150 times and still love it.

We go by longtail, using our local captain. We will have lunch on the longtail itself, and we spend a good long surface interval so that we can have lengthy dives. This isn’t fancy diving – backrolls over the side and just us on the boat. And if you think your surface interval is too long – you’ll see that we just talk away about all the different kinds of marine life.

Bon Soong (The original name – it means heavy spray, like from an elephant trunk) is a tin dredger that sank around 20 years ago. This particular dredger was built in Australia in the 1920’2 or 30’s, eventually making its way here. This region was famous for it’s tin long before it was famous for its beaches.

Bon Soong is scooping dredger, meaning it had a long arm with a series of buckets that it would lower into the shallows to dig up the bottom. Kind of like an elephant trunk (thus the name of the boat!)

The boat went down during a sudden Thunderstorm in the early 80’s. One person died. It wasn’t the sturdiest boat (see construction date) to begin with. The tin was starting to give out and the government was starting to limit the tin mining concessions. So it was fortuitous timing.

It is located a few kilometers off Cape Pakarang or about 13 nautical miles away from Tap-Lamu pier. It is also off of Bang Sak beach, which explains it’s other name.

At first, due to it’s large size, the wreck lay close to the surface making it a safety hazard to local fishing vessels. So the Thai Navy were called in to bomb the boat, reducing its height by collapsing the decks, and creating the wreck that we dive on today.

The Wreck used to be in two pieces, or so we thought! The tsunami of 2004 lifted a huge section of the superstructure off and spread it out. Now the site is even better! More spread out, more nooks and crannies and more for us to poke our heads into!

The wreck lies on serene flat sandy region at 18 to 20 metres. As there is nothing else of note within several kilometers of the site, all the small fish and their predators come to this one locale. The concentration of fishlife here is extraordinary. At times visibility drops to 3 meters – but due to fish, not plankton!!!

We expect to see schools of bigeye trevally, snappers, batfish, porcupinefish and squids on every dive. On the sand floor, we often see leopard sharks, several varieties of gobies, tiny flounders and flatheads wedged in the sand.

Hiding beneath the wreck in the dark, we have often seen a huge marble stingray.

On the wreck itself, you can find a great selection of nudibranchs, white-eyed morays and honeycomb morays with spectacular patterns. Cuttlefish, octopus and pipefish are also very common. If you are fortunate enough, you may encounter a whale shark.


This is a shallow site and easy to navigate, but that doesn’t mean it is safe! The wreck is completely encrusted in corals, mollusks and rust. It also pokes out in some unexpected ways. Even more intimidating are the sheer numbers of Scorpionfish and Lionfish. Hundreds of both just saturate this site with their dangerous spines. This is one of the few sites that actually has Stonefish. Scorpionfish are often identified as Stonefish by the less experienced divemasters. The Stonefish venom is quite painful.

This site is usually THE favorite or one of the favorites of all local Instructors. The amount of life here is incredible, but also the diversity. While we at Wicked are firm believers that the smaller the better – you can still find Sharks, Rays and Barracudas.

This site is home to Hypseledoris Zebrina, Hypseledoris and several other very rare species of Nudibranchs and Flabellinas. Tucked in hidden corners of the wreck are also Frogfish and even seashorses. This is the place to take your time and really like for the little stuff.

Also watch you deco limits

Khao Lak Weather – June 7


A great day today!
Plenty of sun and clear skies. It is a bit on the hot side – 32 or 33 (low nineties) so it’s good to be inside doing this blog!

For the past several days we’ve been having wonderful cloudbursts in the middle of the night. Perfect to cool things off and make for very deep sleeps.

With more time to fill in a lot of the blanks – keep checking back for lots more updates about our dive sites, the fish we see and life in general.

If you are a keen observer of all things “Wicked”. and we are sure you are…You’ll see that the Swedish site is complete and ready to go.

Wicked site
Liveaboardguide site

Thai Muang reef – Our newest “Discovery”?

Last year the World Wildlife Fund (WWF) announced the “discovery” of a local reef. This is located about 17 km South of Khao Lak and is easily accessed by longtails.

When we do this trip we usually visit another local dive site – Premchai Wreck. It’s a beautiful trip along the cliffs – great just for the ride alone! This trip is usually scheduled for Tuesdays, but is done upon request – a minimum of only 2 guests. And only 2500 Baht for two dives, lunch on the beach and of course one of our lovely guides
makes for a great bargain. Just Contact us
Thai Muang park is something like 20km of totally protected white sand beach. This is one of the only Turtle nesting sites for Leatherback turtles on the West coast of Thailand (the other being Golden Buddha Beach). It’s extraordinary to see this much protected land, and yet so very rarely visited.

They also feature a a turtle conservation center (of dubious credibility) with a hatchery and usually a couple of giant old ladies in their pools.

The park is all beach on one side, and then is basically a long peninsula with mangrove swamp on the other side. very protected and very beautiful.

The reef itself is in very good shape and has several great fishes as you can read. We have found that visibility usually never gets more than 12m. There is rarely any current and our greatest finds here are unusual Nudibranchs, Flabellina’s and corals. It’s suitable for all level of divers.

 WWF article follows

“A new coral reef discovered in Phang Nga’s Thai Muang area covers some four square kilometres and accounts for about 5 per cent of all the coral areas in the Andaman Sea.

Lying around five kilometres (ed. note – actually 1 KM) offshore are more than 30 genera of hard corals providing home to 12 species of fish from 56 families, said Songpol Tippayawong, head of WWF Thailand’s Marine and Coastal Conservation Unit, which discovered the coral site.

“The fish living there include such rare species as the parrot fish Chlorurus rakaura, which was first discovered in Sri Lanka and has never before been seen in Thai waters. The reef also has a species of the sweetlips fish, the Plectorhincus macrospilus, which was previously known only from the Similan Islands,” he explained.

The Thai chapter of the leading international environmental group first heard about the coral reef from local fishermen, Songpol said.

“We discovered [the new reef] after talking with local fishermen while we were conducting a survey for our Green Coast project,” he said, referring to the group’s tsunami recovery project for indigenous marine life and local fishing communities.

“The discovery helps us understand why sea turtles in the Andaman Sea use the Thai Muang area as their major nest site: the reef is a source of food for turtles and their offspring,” Songpol said.

Nearby Had Tai Muang is known as the only beach in Thailand where sea turtles living in the Andaman Sea lay their eggs. As many as four species of sea turtle lay their eggs on a 14km long stretch of the beach.

“The reef needs special protection,” he said. “Marine life there is in a very healthy condition having suffered only limited interference from humans.”

The Department of Marine and Coastal Resources (DMCR) is in the process of including the site on its Andaman coral reefs map, highlighting it as protected area under the National Marine Park Act, Songpol added.

A source in Phang Nga said that although locals endorsed the idea of keeping the reef free from interference, they were concerned the act’s strict regulations would prohibit locals from gaining access to their traditional fishing sites.

“We should conserve the coral reef, but local villagers who have been earning a living [from fishing] in the area should be allowed to continue their way of life,” the source said. “If tourism activities like diving will be allowed at the site, local villagers should also be allowed to benefit [from tourism].”

Songpol agreed. He said the WWF Thailand was working closely with DMCR officials to set up a long-term plan to preserve the area.”



www.wickeddiving.com

www.liveaboardguide.com

Phuket Taxitjänsten

Taxitjänsten

Den smutsiga sagan om taxitjänsten vid Phuket Internationella Flygplats

www.khaolaktaxi.com

Taxi vid Phukets Flyplats..
Vad kan man säga….det här är ett väldigt knepigt ämne, ett som rör upp många känslor i det här området. Kort sagt, vilken taxi som helst som erbjuder er sina tjänster vid terminalen på Phukets Internationella Flygplats är del av en väldigt stark, väldigt olycksbådande maffia. De tillåter inte taxameterbilar inom sitt gäng (både genom utfrysnig och faktiskt våld) de lyckas också få hotellen att betala dem avgifter för att levera folk utan bokningar. Det är fullt möjligt att ni hamnar på en golfbana, eller hos en reseagent eller värre. Priset ni betalar för själva färden är 2 till 3 ggr högre än vad ni normalt skulle få betala för en taxi utanför flygplatsens portar. Även om varje taxifärd inte är en tragisk resa så finns det tillräckligt många historier om dem att vi uppmanar er att inte andvända dem.
Om ni tillåter oss att rekomendera er ett par alternativ.

För det första, om ni ändå andvänder dessa taxibilar var snäll och berätta inte att ni INTE har någon hotellbokning, de kommer att tjata och trakasera kontorspersonalen om att betala en avgift (30% av er rumsavgift) vilket de inte förtjänar. De kan också komma att köra er till en reseagent för att boka ett rum eller en tur. Återigen dessa tar ut ett extremt överpris och är sällan vad de utger sig för. Var tydlig med att förklara att ni inte vill ha en golflektion, ett hus i stan eller en guidad tur i Phuket.

Om ni är påväg till Khao Lak så är taximaffian kraftlös i detta området. Hotellen betalar sällan deras dryga krav (en av anledningarna till att våra priser är mer rimliga). Men förarna kommer att ta ut ett överpris för resan (mindre än 80km). De kommer hela tiden förklara för er att Khao Lak är stängt, att hotellen inte har några rum att erbjuda eller till och med säga att området är förbjudet att vistas på. TRO INTE på vad de säger. Vi är helt och hållet öppna, mycket vackrare än Phuket någonsin var och vi kommer välkomna er med öppna armar.

Ett bra alternativ är att gå rakt ut från flyplatsens parkeringsområde (ungefär 300m) och stanna en lämplig taxi – gul eller röd. Dessa kommer gå med på ett pris, fortfarande högt men mycket mindre än maffians. Ni kommer också att komma till eran destination utan några sidospår. Om ni är i en stor grupp eller har en stor hög med baggage, be taxichauffören att komma och hämta er inne på området (ni måste sitta i bilen/minibussen) för att undvika maffians mygel.

Ett sista alternativ som ni kan ta med en nypa salt, är att låta oss annordna en taxi åt er. Vi kommer antingen komma personligen eller sända en av våra pålitliga chaufförer från Khao Lak. Vi kommer att vänta på er vid gaten med erat namn på en skylt och köra er direkt hit. Om ni vill stanna på vägen för en bit mat eller bara sitta vid havet en stund så löser vi det gladeligen. Vi förstår att ni är på semester och att ni behöver tid att anpassa er.

Vi erbjuder en enkel tjänst, och vi tror att alla som precis avslutat en lång flygtur behöver lite hövlighet och respekt. Du kommer att bli körd direkt till dit rum (eller Liveaboard) utan komplikationer. Om ni skulle vilja att vi ordnade en taxi åt er, var snäll och Kontakta oss

Vi annordnar också transporter till och från en mängd andra platser. Antingen ni anländer med tåg till Surat Thani eller med buss till Phuket town. Vi hjälper också till att ordna transporter inom de lokala områdena kring Khao Sok, Takuapa, Thai Muang och Phangnga. Låt oss bara veta vad ni behöver, så slipper ni mera huvudbry.

Khao Lak Buss

Bussar

Khao Lak ligger på den nord-sydliga rutten mellan Phuket and Bangkok

Om du kommer antingen från Bangkok eller Phuket , låt bara personalen på bussen veta att du vill hoppa av i Khao Lak vid Supermarket. Det finns bara en supermarket och den ligger mitt i staden och bara kort gångavstånd från vårt kontor. Om du kommer från andra delar av Thailand skall det räcka med att säga att du vill till Khao Lak, i fall att folk inte verkar förstå, fråga om Takuapa, vilket är en större stad och knytpunkt för många bussar, ligger 30km rakt norr om oss. Bussar går ofta därifrån och söderut.

Bussar finns i fyra huvud kategorier:

Turist bussar

Dessa kallas många olika saker – VIP, 1st Class, Luxury, Super VIP och mkt annat. Vanliga turist bussar är rätt bekväma och kommer att ta dig mer eller mindre dirrekt dit du ska. Rutterna är ganska enkla och du bokar dem oftast i någon av huvud orterna för turister (Kho San Road) och hamnar oftast i ett liknande område. Detta är rätt bekvämt, men du missar mycket av det riktiga Thailand då du oftast har att göra med “rese agenter” som kommer försöka få dig att boka något annat också (dykning, hotel, golf) till mycket högre pris än vad du egentligen borde betala. Och samtidigt håller dig borta från konkurrens som kanske skulle kunna erbjuda dig ngt bättre. Din bussresa kan hamna på tredubbla kostnaden mot vad en statlig buss för samma eller lägre kvalitet.

Statliga bussar

Dessa bussar är alla blå eller oranga, med destinationen och stop skrivna på sidan och i fram.Dessa är generellt bara tillgängliga på statliga busstationer, men du kan också vinka in dem längs med rutten. På busstationerna kommer du oftast träffa på personer som vill sälja dig biljetter till den buss du ska på. I bland kommer de vara killarna som jobbar på bussen som försöker fylla tomma platser (de får betalt efter antal passagerare).De kan också vara personer som vill leda dig till privata bolag till ett högre pris och eventuellt commission på eventuella hotell som du kommer behöva bo på och andra oförutsedda utgifter. Var försiktig och tänk efter, de kommer inte att stjäla från dig, men de kanske inte är vad de utger sig för att vara.

VIP Bussar

Statliga VIP bussar har större säten (tre på bredden i stället för fyra) och kan fällas bak längre. Det finns toalett på bussen så väl som snacks och filtar.Det är också färre stop längs vägen. Generellt går de på alla långa rutter (mer än 8 timmar) och generellt på natten. Som regel är dessa de mest bekväma bussarna i Thailand och ett UTMÄRKT sätt att resa.
Du kommer behöva köpa biljett inna färd med dessa. Om en resebyrå köper en åt dig kommer de lägga på commission då dessa har ett fast pris som inte kan diskuteras.

1a klass

Dessa bussar är bekväma, denna typ är samma som kallas VIP bland turistbussarna. De har toalett ombord, filmer (oftast en Thi version av Rambo el Terminator) de stannar för folk som vill hoppa på och du betalar biljetten på bussen, sätena går att fälla lite och man stannar oftast var tredje timme vid en enkel restaurang eller bara vid en kiosk.

2a klass

Budget bussar (kommer i lite olika stilar)som oftast inte är så bekväma att åka långa sträckor i. Ingen toalett och i bland ingen AC, endast öppna fönster, ingen hitt för långa scandinaver då benutrymmet kan vara begränsat. Dessa är dock att rekommendera för kortare sträckor om du vill se lite av den thailändska landsbyggden!

Bussar avgår från Khao Lak till Bankok med jämna mellanrum.

VIP bussar går en gång om dagen, avgår 17.45 tar ca 11 timmar till BKK och kostar 895 Baht

En First Class buss per dag avgår 17.00 och kostar 580 Baht

Second Class bussar avgår varannan timme mellan 8.30 och 20.00
och kostar 420 baht

Turistbussen avgår från Khao lak vid 1700 och kostar ca 700 baht

Avgångar från Bangkok är många och regelbundna , kolla med rese agenter (se till att inte hamna i Phuket och bli tvungen att ta en minibuss tillbaka up till Khao Lak – de kan sälja dig den resan!)eller ännu bättre – gå och köp dina biljetter på buss stationen!

Wednesday, June 6, 2007

Similan Dive Sites – Koh Tachai Pinnacle


Koh Tachai Pinnalce is a great site, but one of the most frustrating due to it’s currents. This is a beautiful site with the potential for Whale Sharks and Manta Rays. At the Plateau on the top we frequently find Frogfish, Ghost Pipefish and other oddities.

The current is strongest around the Full and New moons, and because of it’s location this is the site that has the strongest of them all. Always wait for your DM to do a current check before jumping in! Use the line for ascent and descent and get ready for a great dive!

There are just so many nooks and crannies to poke around in, that you will find yourself annoyed with your lack of bottom time. I have actually missed a Whale Shark passing by because I was so enthralled with a Flabellina.

In the depths there are Leopard sharks laying in between the rocks. If you are early in the day there are frequently Black and White Tip Sharks and Rays as well. Big schools of Barracudas circle.

After spending a fair bit of time at depth, the shallows offer up the smaller treats and reward the keen eye. Once you see a frogfish, you’ll spend the rest of the dive looking in the smallest bits of coral for more.

The top if the pinnacle is 12 Meters ( 40 feet) so watch you air! The ascent should be on the line. All divers should have a safety marker buoy so that there in case the current takes them away from the boat.

We reserve this dive site for the more experienced divers due to both depths and currents. Worth it!

The currents are strong and the less experienced Divemasters, or those new to the area often find them selves doing blue dives aka “looking for Whale Sharks”

Bottom is 30-40m and the top is 12m, so most of your time is spent around 18m.

Similan marine life – leopard sharks


The Leopard Shark (aka Zebra Shark)

This is one of our favorite fishes and definitely one of the coolest things we see. Previous to our encounters with these fellers I had a fear of sharks (pretty natural).
Upon seeing them in their natural environment I realized how relaxed and placid they are. If you treat them with consideration and respect they will allow fairly close approach. A great way to get over your fears.

They are perfectly harmless as you can see from all these fish milling about – relaxed around the presence of a shark. The leopard tends to eat crabs, octopus and other benthic fish (sandy bottom dwellers) as demonstrated by the position of the mouth – on the underside, rather than the front.


These Sharks will also tend to rest on the bottom of the reef, apparently sleeping. They are just letting the current wash over them and their gills. They aren’t sleeping, but close – they are just resting.


I’ve never seen their eggs but apparently they lay the eggs and leave. Pretty common in sharks.

They are also primarily nocturnal
and the only time we see them moving during the day is usually because of some trigger – most commonly another diver.

As with all sharks, Leopards use a intricate sense that is related to electro-activities rather than smell or sight. So approaching a Leopard shark form the rear triggers a real sense of flight. They are best approached slowly and from the front.


Did you know this harmless shark that we see on most of our dive sites is endangered? I didn’t realize that until I was looking up information for this! But as it lives in inland waters and near reefs and how shark fins are so sought after (and the meat is used for shrimp feed!) this makes sense.

While these are common at many sites, the most frequent sightings are at Breakfast Bend, Christmas Point, Bon Soong wreck, Koh Tachai Pinnacle and Deep Six.

Tuesday, June 5, 2007

New fish species on the Similans!!!

Another new species of fish has been discovered on the Similans! WE are just about as happy as can be. If yo have dived here a few times you’ll notice that the fish they are talking about is not that uncommon. No one realized it was a different species.
Not to be a braggart, but it sounds like this is what we call a peacock coral trout. Brownish body with small blue dots. I couldn’t find a picture as it’s not the most colorful or prominent fish and it’s not in our library.

The other fish he is talking about here is the Andaman sweetlips…also well known to us.

Here’s a picture from our library. Not a great picture as they are pretty camera shy.This was identified as a separate species only a few years ago. This is found on the Similans and at our local dive site – Thia Muang. Add this the hypselodoris Zebrina found only on Bong soong wreck and we are starting to look like pretty good!



This article appeared in the Bangkok post June 4th. They keep referring to Phuket because Ukkrit works there…don’t be fooled…this is the Similans they are talking about. I would have posted a link..but the Bangkok post has this really weird archiving thing going on.


So here is the article in full…

“The marvels of the Andaman

The race to identify new species before they become extinct

Global warming, the subject of an international conference held in
Bangkok recently, is expected to contribute to the rise of sea levels by
one or two metres in the next few years due to melting of polar icebergs.

But there was a time, probably during the last Ice Age some 20,000 years
ago, when the sea level was 100 metres lower than it is today and the
Andaman Sea was a nearly enclosed basin walled off by barriers formed by
the Andaman islands and the Nicobar islands.

This, or earlier similar isolation, may be the reason why several
species of fish are found only in the Andaman Sea, according to marine
biologist Ukkrit Satapoomin, who heads the marine and coastal resource
exploration unit at the Phuket Marine Biological Centre (PMBC).

Over the years since he joined the PMBC 17 years ago, Ukkrit has
discovered seven new species of fish in the waters around Phuket. Among
his discoveries is a grouper, known as pla khao in Thai.

”At first I couldn’t believe that a species new to science could be
found among the fish that people eat every day,” said Ukkrit, whose
scientific reports have been published in international journals
alongside the works of such prominent marine biologists as the former
Prince Akihito, now His Imperial Majesty Akihito, the emperor of Japan.

”It’s probably because there were few scientists who studied groupers,
or they were not too observant to realise that this species,
Cephalopholis polyspila, is different from the others found in Thai
waters. It has the same general characteristics, but it has small blue
spots on the head, body and fins, instead of just the head and thorax.
It’s larger in size than the other species, and has a more elongated
body and shorter pectoral fins.”

The new species can be found in the Andaman Sea, off Phuket and off the
southwestern coast of Sumatra, in depths of between three and 13 metres,
Ukrit said.

For a new species to be recognised by the scientific community, it has
to be given a scientific name, and a full description of its physical
characteristics must be given in a report published in a reputable
science journal.

”Identifying a species new to science is a lengthy process,” the
marine biologist explained. ”If you find what you think is a new
species, you have to collect several specimens to compare it with, make
a survey of where else it can be found, and make sure that it has never
been described before.

”If you are not an expert on the family of fish you’ve found, you have
to find a scientist with an intimate knowledge of each and every member
of that family, and work in close collaboration with them, for only they
can tell if the fish is new to science.

”If you don’t know such an expert, you have to comb every published
scientific work to make sure that no one has already described the fish,
or that it has not been described under another name and then forgotten.”

That was the reason why it took Ukkrit years before he could report
another discovery, a parrot fish, which he first found in 1994. His
report is due to be published in the online journal Zootaxa, an
international publication for animal taxonomists.

The other new species he found were a haemulid, which belongs to the
groups of fish locally known as Soi Nok Khao and Pong Samae, which he
named Pomadasys andamanensis; a cardinal fish or Pla Om Kai (Archamia
ataenia); a thicklip or Soi Nok Khao (Plectorhinchus macrospilus); a
grunter which Ukkrit calls Kapong Samae Nam Luek (Hapalogenys
merguiensis) because it is found in deep waters; and a shrimp-associated
goby or Pla Boo (Myersina adonis).

In addition, he found three other fish which he thought were also new to
science, but he could not find any more specimens.

In the past, researchers collected their specimens from fishing ports
and made their studies from the catches of fishermen. ”They did not
dive underwater and did not see the fish in its natural habitat,”
Ukkrit commented. ”Specimens lose their natural colours in preserving
bottles, and colour is an important indicator of what kind of fish it is.”

Ukkrit and his team from PMBC dive and collect their specimens live.
”Most of the new fish we found were in the Andaman Sea,” he said. They
found the haemulid fish off Phuket, the cardinal fish off northern Surin
Island and the thicklip off the Similan islands.

Why are some species found only in the Andaman Sea?

”That is a question that I often ask,” Ukkrit said. ”I believe that
during the last Ice Age, the Andaman Sea was a closed sea, so the water
level was very low. But even when the water level rose, the fish
populations were too small to spread to the open sea, so the fish
remained in the area.”

In other words, the last Ice Age had an influence on the species found
in the Andaman Sea, Ukkrit said.

He believes there are still many species waiting to be discovered in
Thai waters, especially of goby. Unfortunately, there are not enough
researchers to do the work.

The unit that he heads is not actually responsible for finding species
new to science. Its responsibilities are to investigate marine and
coastal resources in order to collect information on the size, abundance
and distribution of various species of marine life; monitor changes and
species composition and abundance of marine and coastal resources; and
to research and develop technologies to support the rehabilitation of
damaged coastal resources.

”The job description sounds easy, but in practice it’s difficult,”
Ukkrit lamented. ”There are so many kinds of marine life along the
coastal areas, but people who do the work are very few.”

Apart from Ukkrit, his unit only has one other marine biologist to do
the work. They are assisted by five employees who do technical work and
a number of casual workers who are ready to leave when they find better
opportunities elsewhere. ”When they leave, we have to train their
replacements, and this takes time,” Ukkrit said.

”The reason is money,” he added. ”If the powers that be see that a
certain unit is spending more on salaries than other units, they cut the
budget for that unit without determining the amount of work involved and
the number of people needed to do the work. But if you ask the other
units, they have the same problem: They don’t have enough people to do
the work.”

As a result, most of the institute’s researchers work well into the
night, compiling data and doing laboratory work on specimens they
collect during the day. Overworked and underpaid, some take early
retirement when they get the opportunity.

”I’m worried,” Ukkrit, 40, said. ”Few students these days want to be
marine biologists, and when we retire there will be few who will
continue our work.”

The role of his team’s research cannot be seen directly, but it is used
in policy making for the long-term management of coastal areas and
resources, Ukkrit explained.

”For example, there are areas where fish gather at certain times of the
year to spawn. Fishermen know this, but they are keeping it a secret. If
we can determine these areas then we can protect the habitat by slapping
a ban on fishing during spawning and help the fish population to grow
for the fishermen’s own good.

”If the fish are caught before they can spawn, there will be fewer fish
to catch in the future, and if the population of a certain species of
fish is already very low then that species could become extinct.

”In the Gulf of Thailand the fish population has become smaller due to
overfishing and the use of trawlers, as well as destruction of the
habitat. I am not sure if some species have disappeared, but fishermen’s
catches are much smaller than before. In the past mackerel from the Gulf
of Thailand were big, now they are small because they don’t have the
time to grow big enough before they are caught.

”The big mackerel that you see in the market come from Oman, on the
west side of the Indian Ocean.”

As for global warming, there are records that confirm that the sea water
temperature has risen, Ukkrit said.

”Coral bleaching is one of the effects of this rise in temperature. The
highest temperature in our waters is 29 Celsius in the summer; an
increase of two to three degrees will cause stress on the coral, causing
bleaching. If bleaching lasts for two to three weeks, the coral dies,
and the marine life that exists in coral reefs will also be affected.

”A rise in sea level has more effect on coastal areas than on coral
reefs, and this can easily be seen from beaches which have disappeared.
The soil erosion that results, combined with siltation from
unsustainable land development, destroys natural resources in coastal
areas.”

Ukkrit said that when policy makers talk about development, they always
say it must be sustainable, but actually they do not understand the real
value of natural resources. They don’t see why natural resources should
be protected when these can yield more money by being exploited.

”Development of coastal areas has been made faster by the inclusion of
foreign investors, but where it is not appropriate, development should
not be enforced and instead the area must be protected,” Ukkrit said.

”In Phuket, over the last five years, there has been an increase in
land development along coastal areas. When they are clearing mountains
to build houses or resorts, most people do not think of how this will
affect the sea.

”But everything is connected. When it rains, soil and fertiliser
residue flows into the sea, destroying coral reefs and marine life. No
matter where development is, in the end it will affect the sea,” and
fish species new to science could disappear before they are discovered
“”

Sunday, June 3, 2007

Khao Lak Weather – June 3

noticed

Another great day! Bit of rain in the middle of the night last night, but that just kept it cool all day today.
Being Sunday there were families running around on the beach trying not to get wet?!

We spent a good deal of the day updating our site and unpacking equipment for the upcoming season. It was all just serviced and trying everything out to make sure it’s okay.

I also was looking through emails and noticed that Zev had pointed out that he didn’t want anyone to see his dorky picture. Seeing how I couldn’t remember which was was dorky and which one wasn’t….

We also added some new stuff to the site…see if you like it

Similan Dive Sites – North Point


This is another of the great sites on the Northern end of the Similans. Just to the East is Breakfast Bend and to the West is Christmas Point This is actually the most Northern of all the sites actually on the Similans. Because of that we get currents and thermoclines – but also we get big stuff! Great Sea fans filter out the particulates and the Manta’s (hopefully) eat. Very frequent visitors are Napoleon Wrasse, Leopard Sharks and Ghost Pipefish. That means keep you eyes open for the giants and the tiny.


Of course all the usual dive buddies are here – Sweetlips, Snappers, Kuhl’s Rays, Angelfish and lots of Staghorn Coral. But at the end of the dive in the shallows we often find turtles munching away at the corals. You can even hear them grinding away sometimes!


If you are trained to dive deeper there is another pinnacle North of the main site that is just gorgeous. Deep and far enough away to make thing interesting – this site is best done by the very experienced.


With Strong Currents possible this site is best done after a “current Check” and following an experienced guide. As with most of these sites, following the inexperienced guides can lead to disaster. Not only are deco limits to be watched but the site itself can be missed!


The depths on this site aren’t extraordinary, but depending on what dive of the day it is…it’s worth being conservative.


This site is accessible to any level of diver, but Open Water divers may miss some of the great features of this site.

We usually visit this dive site once a week in combination with one of the other Northern Sites, and we have lunch on Island #8. if you have questions or would like to book….Wicked

This site is also frequently part of the scheduled sites for many liveaboards

 

About Us – Our House



These are a couple of pictures of our house.
Yes the whole thing is Pink! I am embarrassed to bring the boys over, but it seems to make Karin Happy.
The design is nice in that the bedroom and living room are North, so they don’t get any sun and stay cool most of the day.
I also feel safe with the balcony, so if I need to set up a sniper’s nest I can…;)

We are also surrounded by a large rubber plantation. so there is plenty of room for the doggie and Kitty to romp around in. It keeps us fairly quiet.

We rent, but would like to own one day. I reckon we’d like to build our own place, and maybe not so pink!


This is the view out the kitchen door. That’s a banana tree and then just one long rows of rubber trees. It always reminds me that we are living in the tropics….That and the heat. And the Frogs in the Bathroom. And the weird bugs in the bathroom.


More later…..

Wicked Diving
Wicked Dykning – (swedish!)
Liveaboard Guide

Saturday, June 2, 2007

Flyg

Flyg

Vi har ett stort urval av flygbolag

Phuket är en väldigt stor Internationell flygplats. Förutom att vara en ett stort europeiskt turistmål så kan du enkelt boka lighter hit från Bangkok, Kuala Lumpur och Singapore. Under högsäsong landar så många som 40 flighter om dagen! Som följd av boomen av budget bolag i Asien så kan det vara möjligt att flyga billigare än att åka tåg och bara till en liten kostnad mer med än buss!

Phukets flygplats ligger endast 75 KM Söder om Khao Lak! Det är mindre än en timmes bilfärd, då vi länkas samman av en snabb väg som med vacker natur runt – du får se det riktiga Thailand redan på väg till ditt hotell. Tillåt OSS att ta hand om din resa från flygplatsen till Khao Lak.
(Läs vår “taxi” section)

Om du flyger en internationel flight, kan du förvänta dig upp till 1 timme i tullen och immigratonen!

Om du flyger inrikes flyg ska du kunna gå ut i genom dörren minuter efter du landat.

Asien har precis öppnat marknaden för sina flygbolag och har nu några av världens bästa erbjudanden på flygbiljetter. Budget bolag som kan erbjuda dig riktiga klipp! Många av dem har utmärkta internet boknings system som är mkt enkla att använda sig av för att boka dina fly till och från Thailand och Phuket.

Om du anländer till Bangkok och sedan har en anknytande inrikes flight – räkna med 2 timmar i olika immigration och tull inspektioner, det tar oftast inte så lång tid, men man vet aldrig.

Som på de flesta Internationella Flygplatser, kan du enkelt hyra en bil (glömm inte att vi kör på vänster sida här! )

Läs vår sektion om Taxi innan du väljer en på Phuket international Airport.

De stora billigare inrikes(och region)flygbolagen är:

Thai Air Asia (använd “malaysia – english” sectionen för att boka på engelska)
Nok Air
Orient One-Two-Go

Även om de inte riktigt är budget bolag, så erbjuder dessa liknande rutter och jobbar tillsammans med resebyråer från bla Sverige…

Bangkok Airways
Thai airways

Men efter en rad olyckor och dåliga säkerhets rutiner har de blivit svartlistade från europeiskt luftrum, och minst ett av deras plan har blivit kvarhållt för att inte ha betalt flygplatsavgifter – vi avråder användande av dem.

För Budget Flyg innom Sydost asien, recommenderar vi…

Tiger Airways Baserat i Singapore
Silk Air Budget delen av Singapore Airlines
Dragon air Baserat i Hong Kong
Malaysia Airlines Baserat I Kuala Lumpur
Jetstarasia Baserat I singapore
Fireflyz Baserat I Penang, Malaysia
Både Kuala Lumpur och Singapore har öppnat nya budget terminaler, så vi förväntar oss en explotion

Taxitjänsten



Den smutsiga sagan om taxitjänsten vid Phuket Internationella Flygplats

Taxi vid Phukets Flyplats..
Vad kan man säga….det här är ett väldigt knepigt ämne, ett som rör upp många känslor i det här området. Kort sagt, vilken taxi som helst som erbjuder er sina tjänster vid terminalen på Phukets Internationella Flygplats är del av en väldigt stark, väldigt olycksbådande maffia. De tillåter inte taxameterbilar inom sitt gäng (både genom utfrysnig och faktiskt våld) de lyckas också få hotellen att betala dem avgifter för att levera folk utan bokningar. Det är fullt möjligt att ni hamnar på en golfbana, eller hos en reseagent eller värre. Priset ni betalar för själva färden är 2 till 3 ggr högre än vad ni normalt skulle få betala för en taxi utanför flygplatsens portar. Även om varje taxifärd inte är en tragisk resa så finns det tillräckligt många historier om dem att vi uppmanar er att inte andvända dem.
Om ni tillåter oss att rekomendera er ett par alternativ.

För det första, om ni ändå andvänder dessa taxibilar var snäll och berätta inte att ni INTE har någon hotellbokning, de kommer att tjata och trakasera kontorspersonalen om att betala en avgift (30% av er rumsavgift) vilket de inte förtjänar. De kan också komma att köra er till en reseagent för att boka ett rum eller en tur. Återigen dessa tar ut ett extremt överpris och är sällan vad de utger sig för. Var tydlig med att förklara att ni inte vill ha en golflektion, ett hus i stan eller en guidad tur i Phuket.

Om ni är påväg till Khao Lak så är taximaffian kraftlös i detta området. Hotellen betalar sällan deras dryga krav (en av anledningarna till att våra priser är mer rimliga). Men förarna kommer att ta ut ett överpris för resan (mindre än 80km). De kommer hela tiden förklara för er att Khao Lak är stängt, att hotellen inte har några rum att erbjuda eller till och med säga att området är förbjudet att vistas på. TRO INTE på vad de säger. Vi är helt och hållet öppna, mycket vackrare än Phuket någonsin var och vi kommer välkomna er med öppna armar.

Ett bra alternativ är att gå rakt ut från flyplatsens parkeringsområde (ungefär 300m) och stanna en lämplig taxi – gul eller röd. Dessa kommer gå med på ett pris, fortfarande högt men mycket mindre än maffians. Ni kommer också att komma till eran destination utan några sidospår. Om ni är i en stor grupp eller har en stor hög med baggage, be taxichauffören att komma och hämta er inne på området (ni måste sitta i bilen/minibussen) för att undvika maffians mygel.

Ett sista alternativ som ni kan ta med en nypa salt, är att låta oss annordna en taxi åt er. Vi kommer antingen komma personligen eller sända en av våra pålitliga chaufförer från Khao Lak. Vi kommer att vänta på er vid gaten med erat namn på en skylt och köra er direkt hit. Om ni vill stanna på vägen för en bit mat eller bara sitta vid havet en stund så löser vi det gladeligen. Vi förstår att ni är på semester och att ni behöver tid att anpassa er.

Vi erbjuder en enkel tjänst, och vi tror att alla som precis avslutat en lång flygtur behöver lite hövlighet och respekt. Du kommer att bli körd direkt till dit rum (eller Liveaboard) utan komplikationer. Om ni skulle vilja att vi ordnade en taxi åt er, var snäll och Kontakta oss

Vi annordnar också transporter till och från en mängd andra platser. Antingen ni anländer med tåg till Surat Thani eller med buss till Phuket town. Vi hjälper också till att ordna transporter inom de lokala områdena kring Khao Sok, Takuapa, Thai Muang och Phangnga. Låt oss bara veta vad ni behöver, så slipper ni mera huvudbry.

Khao Lak Beaches – Nang Tong beach

Some pictures to tide everyone over until next October. The weather has been great and diving conditions have been really nice as well.
Again – you never know what to predict. Typically we have a wet May then dry-ish until August. Rain again for a month or so, then nice weather.
We are coming off an El Nino year, so conditions are a bit different.

Keep checking back for updates on weather, diving and life here in general.

We are trying to post various pictures of the different beaches in the area, to give you an idea of all that makes Khao Lak so nice…to live and to visit. There are plenty of resorts in every catagory and you can stay for a day or for a month.

This is right down the beach road, not some remote beach, but the first place you’d walk into the water if you go off the bus.



www.wickeddiving.com
www.liveaboardguide.com

Penang – Phuket flights

Just did a visa run to Penang on Fireflyz airline. While they have a pretty stupid name and are very hard to find online (they come up 20th when you Google) they are cheap and painless. 80 minute flight plus getting there and away.
50 seat Turbo-props with nice views of Langkawi (talk about pollution) and Koh Lipe (no pollution). Pop in a taxi and you are in your guest house in no time. Vice versa for Khao Lak. Seriously easy and saves so much time and hassle. It was formerly a minibus ride to the border, switching buses at Hat Yai (not safe) and then onwards. 14 hours or more. Never again…

That means Downtown Georgetown to Khao Lak in a total of 3 hours. 80 minutes flying and the rest driving! If you book far enough ahead then the flights are only 390 Baht (plus taxes – makes about 1500 baht). Good deal.
Life is getting better…